Experiscent Six: Arid Purple

For number six, I wanted to get feedback on a definitive unisex scent. Featuring lavender, which is a note that I love, this scent is, IMO, harder to wear than the notes would have you think. On some, it's an absolute love......the clean, bracing feel of the lavender opposes they smoky dry notes of the base. On others, it's overly linear and perhaps a bit grating.  The panel:

Alfredo:  Crisp and green with an herbal aspect...... possibly Chamomile.  I I also detect some anise wrapped in leather, an Aromatic Fougere that is Masculine and Assertive...I picture a Gent in the late 1970's or early 80's,  wearing this on a daily basis as his Signature to work and for his weekends going out.

Igor:  For me personally a very loud and resounding “NO”. The vial came broken and the contents were spilled inside the little bag. I tried them out straight on my wrist as I did not have enough to also do it on a blotter. The fragrance is so aggressively masculine. It is a blast of very acrid bergamot and strong musk. Maybe I’m imagining it, but I also get some dry English lavender. The scent wanes a bit on the drydown, transforms into a waxy vetiver scent . The longevity is very long, could not wash it off, it lasted until the next morning. The sillage is beastly; you could smell me from another room. It is very reminiscent of the fragrances of the late 80’s early 90’s, Aramis and Tsar, the choking, uber- masculine chypres. I personally did not like them back then and still have not warmed up to them. I cannot see myself wearing it. But on others they work a lot nicer. If I were to put an image to this, it would be Mickey Rourke in 9 ½ weeks. Overly masculine, freshly shaven guy in a high waisted Versace suite.

Emily:  Chypre? I get my chypres and my fougères mixed up, but I think this may be the former. No, wait, that might be lavender as the floral component, which would kick it back towards fougère. Anyway, I find it rather powdery and lightly mossy. The most interesting part is some animalic component which is just strong enough to be provocative, but nowhere near "yikes." It has good bone structure. Development is slow and subtle; many hours later it's a bit more mossy and woody. It is certainly classically inspired, if not an actual classic.

Alyssa:  Whoa nelly, this was an instant extreme like for me! As soon as I popped the vial open I said out loud, “this is an Alyssa scent”. I literally was inhaling this intoxicating scent on me and I kept getting mental images of what outfit I would be wearing this with as opposed to describing the scent itself. I saw it as a night out on the town with the ladies type of scent - either for some drinks or some dancing. I saw myself in a light pink silk cami with black lace trim, a pair of dark skinny jeans, black high heels, black leather jacket and some big silver hoop earrings to finish the look. This is a scent I’d be proud to wear and wear it well - she wouldn’t wear me.

Rina:   "Dad's Aftershave.." I don't know most notes, so I can't say this is vetiver or hedione or Hai Karate. It smells clean and masculine and freshly showered. Like Matthew McConaughy getting into his tux for the big poker game.. Alright, alright, alright! Alas, like Lady Luck, it was fleeting after a few hours but so good while it was there.

Trona:  It’s a gorgeous day, warm sunshine bathing old winter skin. Sequim is the destination today to frolic in the farms that made this town famous. Arriving at the Purple Haze Lavender farm, can’t help but be taken aback by the sea of purple waves and the heavenly scent of lavender, the powerful jolt of lavender mixing with the spearmint bushes that line the fields makes for a divine intervention in one’s attitude. Literally forcing a peaceful and joyous reunion of soul and body if only for the day, the effervescent aromas mingling gently among the intoxicating purple theme. Walking through the isles of aromatic bush, a hint of lemon pops in my nose, delighting my senses as I search the area to see what source I smelled. I turn to a rickety, old greenhouse with peeling white paint and a slightly leaning door, and spot the tender potted lemon tree with beautiful plump lemons as if on display at the tiny window. They steal the show, like a welcome friend amongst the endless sprays of purple and green, but only for a moment. Wandering off again, absorbing the scenery, the air is thick in lavender, but a sweet lavender, and a slight hint of mint now, even a tinge of tea and peppers, like English breakfast and pink pepper, most likely from the herb house on the property. Thoughts of relaxation and lazy days affect the mind and by days end the sweet scent remains ingrained in my mind and heart, as I drift off to sleep. This is a lavender powerhouse, sweet and minty, strong mint at first, turning mild throughout, pepper enters later on in the middle notes and leave a slightly powdery residue, the lemon brightens the lavender intoxication and breaks up the theme. Finally, a little tea (herbal) and maybe even spice come into the picture at the end, the scent is moderate sillage, long lasting and beautiful, it is relaxing and evokes feelings of peace and aromatherapy healing. Excellent scent for bedtime and any time of the year really. Unisex. All ages, but most likely to be used by mature adults.

Paula:  

This opens with lavender made sweet and soft by maybe a powdery vanilla? The sweetness dissipates fairly quickly though (so maybe not vanilla after all), and the lavender increases in strength and starts to smell a bit like fabric softener. …Not getting a lot of development from this one. It's still sweet soft lavender, maybe just a bit more herbaceous than it was to open. Pleasant enough, but not tremendously interesting. ...Now the fabric-softener quality is transitioning to a certain astringent soapiness. Maybe a bit of amber, with a very slight burning quality. I get tremendous longevity with this one, even though not much evolution—I can still smell plenty of soft lavender-vanilla a good 9 hours after applying. ...In fact, I can still can smell it (faintly) the next morning after almost 24 hours!

Second trial: The opening is all lavender, but soft and soapy instead of harsh, astringent, or "man"-fresh. Indeed, it strikes me as quite unisex. ...Now I'm getting a bit of pepper. Not as much sweetness as the other day. There is nothing too complex here—just a good, solid, soft lavender perfume that should be quite palatable and unobjectionable to most.

UPSHOT:  Good traditional fresh unisex scent with excellent longevity. I don’t know what Yardley’s English Lavender smells like off the top of my head, but my idea of the name and concept of the perfume tells me it should smell pretty much like this! This perfume could make a workhorse office scent for the man or woman who wants to smell Oxford-fresh all day without needing to reapply. It’s not for me, but I wouldn’t at all mind sitting next to a person wearing this—it would be almost a literal breath of fresh air.

Jen:  I want to start by saying I have come to firmly believe that any one can wear any scent that tickles their fancy, "feminine" and "masculine" labels be damned. It's still somewhat of a new concept for me, though, so it is hard for me to fight against my initial impression that #3 veers very hard towards the "Masculine" label. Be it on a man or woman, this scent has my heart going pitter-patter everytime I catch a whiff, and my 6 year old may have side eyed me nuzzling my own wrists. I have no idea what usually goes into a fragrance like this so I am at a loss here for notes, but to my untrained nose this one is incredibly well blended. It feels smooth and fresh and woody and clean and maybe mossy all at once in a beautifully understated but definitely noticable way. As it dries down I am getting a slightly sharper note, but it is still excellent. I am *dying* to find out what it is. I don't even want to take a shower because I want to keep sniffing! This is my number one favorite out of the six scents I have sampled so far in this experiment, even if it isn't something I'd necessarily wear myself. So good!

Erica:  My scent-loving dad joined in for this round of blind testing. 

My thoughts: A beautiful blast of sparkling lavender at the opening draws me in, but then the lavender fades too quickly. Left behind is a bland fougere that smells very generic, like shaving cream. I love the lavender at the opening, but I'm disappointed by the average fragrance that lingers after the lavender burns off. 

My dad was very dramatic about refusing to tell me what he thought until I said my piece. Once I shared my thoughts, he proclaimed it to be "bug spray" and we had a laugh. Um, it didn't appeal to him. 

Scent number 6 was Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande.  When you do a search for this one, the notes that are listed are simply "Lavender and Incense"........ok, we got that from the name :).  I've always found this to be a nice, herbal blast of notes to open.  The lavender is definitely present, I get a touch of clary sage again, and a bit of rosemary.  The incense shows up on me as a masculine spicy presence.  I believe I get frankincense, and perhaps a bit of tonka.  There's a bit of an ashtray vibe.....elegant lavender cologne worn in a dive bar.  I like the contrast of clean with dirty.......it comes across on me as a slightly sexy scent and feels good to wear with the basic of basics:  a white tank top and my favorite jeans.  I wouldn't say this is my favorite SL Lavender, that title goes to Fourreau Noir......but whereas Fourreau Noir are the dry, golden autumn evenings, Encens et Lavande is a cold December morning.  

I was really intrigued by the strong emotions......everyone seemed to have a resounding YES!  or NO! about it.  It got me to wonder how the additions of a few twists could turn a basic  perfumery note into something inducing such polarity.  I think many of us have strong associations with lavender which sets our expectations immediately upon sniffing it in the opening.  For some, it indicates cleanliness, in others peace, and for others it induces a medicinal or antiseptic memory.  For me, it invokes memories of cool breezes on warm, dry days.  Sometimes, the incense is this confuses me, and my nose isn't expecting it for some reason.  However, that is the element that I enjoy in this scent.  It keeps me guessing and I feel differently about it every time my mood and/or the weather changes. 

   



   

Experiscent Number 5: Viridian Powder

In my perfume life my opinions of green perfume have swung wildly from extreme love to dislike, and the copious variations of what makes a scent 'green' have made it an intriguing type of scent family for me.  From soft, dark mosses to cool mints, bright lime to bitter greens, the uses of 'green notes' help to balance florals and citruses alike, give energy to musks, and add a fresh air element to woods. 

Scent number two was a purchase for me that came about when I saw a bottle listed on ebay for a great price with no other bids.  I had tried others from this perfume house and enjoyed them, so I blind bought it with neutral expectations, as the note list wasn't overly intriguing to me but it was a bargain.  I ended up liking it immediately.  I really wanted to get opinions on this one, I don't think it would be something that most people would order samples of (they're hard to come by, sample-wise).  Here's what they said:

Paula: 

Vanilla-almond to open with a hint of booze with maybe a bit of champaca or perhaps immortelle?—some sort of sweetish flower.  This strikes me as semi-edible, like a perfumed macaron. After a little bit, it gets flower-ier--a bit of rose-marshmallow?  Quite sweet and pleasant.  Yes, I’m going with the macaron idea here as the one by which I shall remember this perfume. …I continue to like this one, and am getting quite good longevity.  Smells like vanilla marshmallow in the far drydown, with a hint of champaca. 

On the second trial, this is very sweet floral-almond opening , quite lovely.  Is it honey? Probably not.  It’s more vanilla-sweet.  Marshmallow, perhaps?  But it’s unmistakably floral more than gourmand.  Though I would say that whatever the flowers are, they are edible!  I’m getting good sillage and a little cloud of waft as I move around with this one.  Me gusta.  I feel like this is likely to have decent-quality ingredients in it.  It doesn’t feel super-luxury expensive, but middle- to upper-middle class.   I wouldn’t mind a decant of this to get to know it better.  I’m not so head-over-heels with it that I feel urged to acquire a full bottle at this time, but I could see wearing this whenever I want to feel like a sweet, innocent, good girl from a respectable family. 

Nicole:  This one opens in a blast! Big, loud and definitely a signature scent meant to turn heads. My first impression is a boozy, honey type floral with green in the background. Very heady and sensual without being dark. It settles nicely and eventually evolves into a semi sweet powdered floral.

Alfredo:  This has a Lovely Opening that greets you with cheerful florals reminiscent of Pink Roses, Iris & Violet buds.  I also detect an apple & kiwi-like fruitiness which makes this sweet yet tart.  The dry down is a sheer soft powder.  All in all it's a Beautiful fragrance that brings to mind a romantic turn of the century young lady who's ready to head into The Modern Era with Excitement and JOY!

Emily:  I find the opening pleasantly floral and a bit familiar. As I strain to pick out a note--any note--my brain locks on lily of the valley. Is it? I don't know, but fortune favors the bold and I don't get any points for half-assing this, so I'm moving forward on that assumption. The next thing I notice is a light green scent, pleasant and not bitter the way I find many "green" perfumes to be. Fragrantica informs me that Lily of the Valley is a "green floral," so that tracks nicely. Anything else? Maybe some bergamot, in aid of an air of freshness. Not that it matters much, since it doesn't stick around long. In perhaps 15 minutes the whole thing has taken an abrupt turn for the powdery and eventually settles into something in the realm of amber. I'm guessing this is at least somewhat modern because I'm not finding any of the aldehydes or oakmoss I would expect from, say, a Rive Gauche or a Coty Muguet des Bois.  

Erica (and her amazing dad): 

My thoughts: Sweetly powdery floral, along the lines of violet, mimosa, wisteria, and magnolia. Sniffing the vial I am not feeling it, but on my skin I am finding that it's not totally horrifying despite the syrupy sweetness. Late in the dry down, I sense a peripheral vanilla cotton candy vibe. If this had a color, it would be a soft candied pastel violet and cloud-white marbleized swirl. Makes me think of the brand Tocca, I wonder if I have worn this before. I really handle the cloying aroma very long though, I think I may have a negative association with this scent.

This is my dad's favorite. He said it was very feminine and beautiful. He sat huffing the vial for quite some time. Go figure! It was his favorite, yet my bottom of the three. 

Alyssa: 
I loved how this smelled from the vial and upon first application it actually made me think of the leather in L’Artisan’s Traversee du Bosphore! Now I have always heard the term anosmia and being anosmic to a scent, but I never understood that term till this one. I was literally able to smell it for about 10 minutes and that was it! I gave it three tries to see if I was having an “off day” but each time the same thing happened. I am super curious to see if anyone else had the same reaction.

Jen:  Green floral? The opening made me think of water lilies (which is a note I am totally unfamiliar with, but it's what came to mind). It was a light, slightly sweet, watery green, which also kind of sounds cucumber-y, but this felt more floral to me. After a little bit of time passed a cold note came up. Not quite mint, more medicinal. Kind of cough syrupy. This one also faded really quickly on me, but that could just be me getting used to wearing perfume in the desert vs the everglades! Didn't hate it, but wasn't super excited by it.

Trona:  

Series 2 Fragrance 2 It’s shopping day and she enters as a cute, young, suburbanite, wearing tall boots and a brim hat. Her short,  flowy dress dances with her gait flirtatiously. Her presence is cheerful and playful, a breath of sweet air. She bustles with energy and her bright personality is evident from her pink fruity lip gloss and mint wad of gum that pops when she chews it. A few minutes later, her sass, it appears, a little spice from her personality poured out like iris soup with white pepper sauce. Her sweetness remains, but she claims the afternoon with vivacious tenacity. A sugared piquant in powdery glaze, her colorful heart is versatile and well bred, Though her vanilla virtue begs for attention like a spoiled schoolgirl. As the evening approaches, she becomes soft, and quiet, sweet as jasmine and a joy to entertain. This fragrance is feminine and sweet, I suspect from jasmine or ylang ylang, it is complex in that it changes to so many notes and pleasantly so. It is youthful, energetic, and fresh, not sexy, not sophisticated, but playful and flirtatious. I believe it opens with a sweet floral, I get iris and something fresher like lily along with a jasmine, the iris turns powdery and I get a pepper that dominates along with the sweet powder throughout the heart. In comes vanilla and that sweet jasmine a few hours in. It becomes soft and near to the skin and lasts about 5-6 hours on me. Lovely, lovely scent, I think well blended. Very nice to my nose!

Igor: 
This one was very tough for me because I know I’ve smelled it before. So now I’m hitting my head on the wall trying to remember what it is. It is really hard to focus on the notes without trying to remember. I get a lot of white flowers, vanilla and orange on top. On drydown I get more white flowers, specifically neroli very mild and well mixed neroli with strings of vanilla. The longevity is great, 4-5 hours. After wearing it for about 3hours, I get traces of sandal and honey. The sillage is very strong too. I feel like it is a woman’s designer fragrance because of its delivery and the composition. I can go out on a whim and guess that it may belong to the Armani clan. Armani Code for women? Funny enough it reminds me of my boss at the pharma company I used to work for. She was a petite Italian lady who , I swear, smelled like this and I used to compliment her on it all the time. The other interesting image this scent engenders is the wave of mixed scents you get upon entering Sephora. To me this is such a Sephora scent.

My thoughts:  

Scent number five was Decou Vert by Laboratorio Olfattivo.  I really enjoy this one.  The opening is a fresh burst of green over delicate white spring blossoms, a touch of lily of the valley.  It's a ittle cool, a little sweet, like an April breeze carrying the scent of grass and dew while the first warm weather blossoms are bursting open.  The green notes dissipate but still weave a pleasant tune behind the constant hum of florals.  It adds a plus density and wears like a very soft, light velvet.  I think the genius in this scent is the use of magnolia......I find magnolia to be very tricky.  In scents, sometimes it feels very sharp and cloying to me, but here it holds the feeling of the newly opened flowers with a cool tone.  It's balanced with some other florals, the notes list lilac and jasmine.  Though others noted the lilac, it's not an obvious note to me, but adds a definitive spring vibe.  The fragrance holds all the elements of a spring tapestry for the entire life of the scent.  The leaf and dew notes eventually fade but the blooms never become overwhelming.  Like Igor, I get a touch of honey in this as well and it adds a vaguely gourmand twist without getting truly into edible territory, it just adds a touch of interest.  The lasting power on this fragrance is very good....I think the oakmoss on the base keeps in very grounded and furthers the realistic perception of the floral notes.

Laboratorio Olfattivo offers some great scents at fairly reasonable prices.  For some reason they haven't had as much of an impact on the perfume community yet, but they are all beautifully made....I believe that over time they will become more well known.  Decou Vert is a beautiful spring scent and well worth trying.

Experiscent Number 4: Searching for Summer

There are fragrances that sometimes just seem to cover a whole range of moods.......I adore scents that you can reach for when you want to smell clean, as well as when you want to smell elegant, or effortless, or relaxed........it's a rare scent that can encompass all these qualities.  I typically find scents geared towards summer wear to be a bit more versatile than their winter counterparts.

For our mystery scent number 4, i provided decants of a perfume that I love to wear in the summertime.  I picked it out during a sunny week in my hometown when I was feeling great nostalgia for summer dresses and sunshine.  Reactions from our panel as follows!

Nicole:  On my skin it opens bright and with a sense of an aquatic note, like wet moss on the sea coast. After about 30 minutes it settles and I get a white floral/musk close to the skin. Gardenia or another white floral that softens and dissipates rather quickly. Not a powerhouse scent, more like a series of soft comforting notes.

Alyssa:  Citrus with a capital C was my first impression! It started very sharp on me with two sprays yet turned into this gorgeous creamy scent fast. Towards the middle I picked up a wonderful spiciness that I quite enjoyed. I found it to be very light on me and had to press my nose down on my skin a few times to smell it but I did enjoy this one. I can see wearing it on a Saturday when running around doing my shopping trips to the mall or meeting someone for lunch.

Alfredo:  Fresh SHARP Lemon & Lime peels with just a touch of small Spring flower buds that have yet to bloom, resting on a bed of wet green palm leaves.  When it gets to the base it finally starts to softens to a smooth, almost bamboo-like finish with soft sillage and projection.  It brings to mind a Classic Aqua de Colonia that would be perfect for the whole family to refresh with in the hot summer months...pretty much a straightforward, what-you-smell-is-what-you-get EDT.

Igor:  Flashback, flashback, flashback. While living in Paris, my father would shave every morning. He would open the French windows (we lived on the top floor in Montmartre apartment house), start whistling something, lather up and then splash himself with this scent! To me it’s the smell of my Parisian mornings, with sun beaming into the apartment with beautiful Paris in the backdrop. I started with the description because the scent is so familiar. I understand that it is a very common citrus aromatic scent. I have a feeling that it could be 4711 Original Eau de Cologne by Maurer & Wirtz . Likely runner ups are : Eau de Rochas Homme (but from what I remember , it is slightly more bitter because of verbena and basil) and Oranges and Lemons Say The Bells of St. Clements because of the sweet and soapy neroli in it. The top notes include a bursting citrus cocktail of lemon, bergamot, and mandarin orange. In the mid notes I sense cedar hints, basil, smooth earthy oakmoss and vetiver. The base notes are masterfully blended in a somewhat sweet white musk and soapy tender neroli. It is clearly intended for gents, but I would absolutely love this scent on a lady for its bittersweet freshness. Longevity is not great (it might be an aftershave or EDT?), about an hour. The sillage is moderate. This would be an ideal aftershave for an office. Thumbs up. 

Rina:  Very green, citrusy, bright, sparkly aldehydes. Familiar. Chanel? Drydown is woody, but forestry woody. Green wood, not dried. Still sappy... Me likee!

Trona:  It’s early morning, my first day in paradise, Just finished my morning meal and am sitting comfortably in the fresh air out on the lanai. It is warm and gentle breezes balance the humid air. Sudden bursts of tart zephyr tickle my nostrils from the lemon groves out yonder. That citrus punch awakens my senses and then I get the bergamot, a zesty lime, likened to a tall glass of 7up, giving that lemon a twist. Awe…it is refreshing and bright, energizing, yet the atmosphere is so relaxing, I feel alive! And I relish in the moment when I notice the lovely orange mixing in with the lemon-lime, like a mandarin flavored mojito. That orange peel from breakfast teases my senses and it lingers as the day wains. A couple hours in, I decide to wash my breakfast dishes and pick up that soapy residue leftover on my hands mixed with the syrupy orange peel scent of earlier but only when I sniff closely. I feel rejuvenated, free spirited and ready to kick off my holiday. This fragrance is very linear on my skin, it changed from one citrus to another quickly, within about 15 minutes and then remained an orange scent and slightly soapy orange scent thereafter, it is very close to the skin, akin to peeling oranges and having leftover residue on one’s fingers. It is a good scent offering feelings of cheerfulness and freshness on a warm summer day. Sillage is low, longevity is moderate. Unisex fragrance. I get the bright, bold, lemon immediately that quickly changes to bergamot within a minute), tart, yet, sweet bursts make an appearance for about 2 hours, and it comes in short waves. About 15 minutes in, fresh peeled oranges, but sweet like mandarins make an appearance. It remains this way until about an hour in and then I get a slight (whisper) hint of soap in the mix. I mentally want something more and patiently wait for a blast of vanilla, or powder, but nothing else comes, I think it lacks that Ummph! But is a fresh simple scent to enjoy anyway!

Emily:  It has the kind of juicy citrus opening that I expect from an Atelier Cologne fragrance. I think it's a more exotic citrus than your garden-variety lemon or bergamot. After a few minutes it reveals a note of almost buttery floral that makes me want to double down on the Atelier guess with "Sud Magnolia" specifically; I smelled it a month or so ago but unfortunately I don't have any around now and my scent memory is by no means photographic (osmographic?). Part of me wants to dig out all my AC samples and go through them looking for a match to the fruit note if not the whole perfume, but that might be considered cheating, and is also a lot of work. Anyway, if I'm right I'm totally going out and buying a lotto ticket.

Erica (and her dad!!!!!!):  My thoughts: Lemony Lemon McLemon time. Seriously, straight up lemons with lemon zest on top. As it dries down it seems more like lemongrass, like there is a quietly herbal component. Later when the citrus vanishes without a trace, it morphs completely and reminds me vaguely of the aquatic-floral genre. The first time I sniffed the vial I thought of vetiver, but with a skin application it doesn't come to mind.  Both my dad and I feel the same about this one - it is alright, but not special. He basically said, "Eh, it's ok."

Paula: 

(First trial) I’m getting beeswax and/or honey, orange blossom, and lemony soap. In fact, this one smells just like hotel soap to me. It’s really similar to Seville a l’Aube, but lemonier. 

(Second trial) This is opening with a lemony blast, followed quickly by white flowers. It’s reminding me today of old-timey cleaning fluid like you would use with a string mop. Or dish soap--Palmolive Lemon! Yes, that’s it! It’s lemon dish soap! Ha. Today it's not striking me as having the moderate depth and richness that it did the first time—it’s less honey-waxy and more about the lemon-floral notes. I will laugh if this turns out to be expensive, because it really smells like any pleasant cleaning product at Target. ...As the heart opens, the orange blossom is coming out strongly. This is definitely Seville a l'Aube Light—Now With Fresh Lemon! It’s light, and I got short longevity with this one both times, somewhere between two and three hours—perhaps as to be expected with a citrus-heavy fragrance?

UPSHOT: I’d wear this to play tennis in, or right after I got done showering after playing tennis. (I probably do wear it right after I hand-wash some wine glasses…ha ha.) I wouldn’t turn down a free bottle, but would not pay more than $10 for it myself—though plenty pleasant, it just smells too generic.

Jen:  Holy Lemons, Batman! This opening was basically a lemon still attached to a branch. Sour juice, bitter pith, sweet essential oil, and green leafyness are all here in spades. As it dries down a bit it starts to seem less lemony and more...grapefruity? Whatever it is, it is most definitely citrus, just slightly softer. Then something else comes through; maybe some woods. Definitely some greenery. It fades away to nothing within a few hours. Damn this desert air! I keep feeling like there is more to these latest samples, but they escape me, even after moisturizing before spraying.

My thoughts:

 Scent number 4 is Escale a Portofino by Dior.  I've enjoyed this fragrance from the first time I bought it as a blind buy.  It opens with a very bright, fruity orange note.  I say fruity orange because it's not just citrus.....there's a vague candied feel to it that pops and dissipates in the first half hour or so.   It's not childish or vulgar, just wonderfully sweetened, like orange slices sprinked with sugar and quickly broiled to melt it into a glaze.  There is petitgrain, adding a strong bite and light hint of bitterness.  

The heart of this scent is beautiful.......orange blossom petals and a hint of sweetness (almond is listed in the notes) keep this from being a fleeting, splashy cologne and adds a bit of a twist to an otherwise traditional composition.  These notes add tenacity to the scent.....to me, they add a bit of elegance and make this a scent that works for both a casual encounter to a summer dinner date.  The base notes include juniper berry and cypress for a hint of herb, galbanum for a touch of bitter greenery, and musk.  

In the summer I spray this on summer scarves or on my dresses, but I've had good longevity on my skin as well.  This is not a scent that does well when exposed to light......I smelled one that had been sitting out and it was awful compared to my boxed, in the dark bottle.  The top notes that make it so playful had all but disappeared and what was left had turned flat and dull.  I've had mine stored well for two years and it smells just as delightful as the first time I sprayed it.  I'm really looking forward to wearing it this summer again.......in fact, I'm going out for a fancy dinner tonight with my friends.  I think I'll be wafting some Portofino tonight! 

   

Experiscent Number 3: The Flower Space

One think I've always loved about scent is how polarizing a scent can be.  I can think of many classic scents that have both adoring fans and people who absolutely cannot stand them.  The third scent in our blind sniff series resulted in some definite preference lines.   This scent is a 'designer' scent, however, it was created by a 'niche' nose.....resulting in a heady, dense fragrance that speaks of quality ingredients and, I think, well represents the aesthetic of both the fashion designer and nose that created it.

Our blind reviewers' thoughts:

Jen:  This one definitely grew on me the longer I wore it. On my skin I get a slightly sweet, medium bodied fruity floral with decent staying power. I'm not much for florals, but I could wearing this on a casual date night. 

Nicole:  How amazing! This is a gorgeous, full bodied boozy floral that rises and settles throughout the day. The opening is gentle but full of dimension. The slightly sweet boozy note in the forefront but then a soft floral makes its way in and develops absolutely beautifully! The notes weave back and forth; like an elegant dance that lasts all day. This has a very vintage feel that can be worn either night or day. It settles close to the skin so it would do well in public settings. A stunning, elegant statement signature that is sure to be Loved! * I have worn this for three days straight!*

Alfredo:  Fresh  and feminine white floral that is slightly sweet & creamy ....I get jasmine, daisies, lily of the valley and honeysuckle.  It's pretty and romantic, quite possibly like the bouquet a bride carries on her spring wedding in the outdoors.  It becomes a little more unisex-friendly in the smooth sandalwood like dry-down.
 

Cyndi:  This scent is similar to #2 for me – unremarkable freshness and citrus, with a synthetic smell.  It was my least favorite of the group.  I didn’t get any personality out of it – and isn’t that what we are looking for in a scent???

Trona:  It’s Late May, and the air is crisp, slightly cool and it is gorgeous in downtown Seattle. I am meeting with my ladies for a luncheon at Pacific Place and then off to scour the many luxury shops throughout. Adorned in a light blue pant suit and my young sixties white hair frolicking beneath my chapeau, my overly powdered face set under slightly rouge glossed lips, I sit with the girls beneath the glass dome and take in all the hustle and bustle. My fragrance today reflects just how I feel. It is fresh, clean and just a tinge soapy. It developed since morning from a tad-bit overpowering from what I believe to be orange blossom, a little goes a very long way.  As it rested, it changed slowly into this beautiful clean floral.  It is lasting and makes a statement without being too loud. Like my personality, it's a little sassy (citrus), but refined when necessary; this fragrance speaks to those around me and I get compliments from my girls, each one asking what that beautiful scent is. As we finish our lunch and browse Tiffany's admiring the lovely sparkles and then head into Barneys, I see the most beautiful bag....it's a Louie and much more than I want to spend, but the smell of its newness and luxury, the fine lines of perfection in its cut and sewn leather....this is how my fragrance feels!  Though this is a perfume I would only wear on certain occasions such as this, I reserve my other perfumes for different settings. This one is unique to my collection and reserved for special occasions. Spring or Summer scent worn on a cool winter day, great sillage and longevity, this is not a perfume for babies.  It is strong and sassy and speaks to people, the wearer must have confidence!  I feel it is a more mature scent for an older woman who loves class and elegance and the finer things in life. I detected a soapy clean floral with hints of citrus and a blast of citrus at first spray. It changed tremendously in the first hour and then remained pretty much the same for me.

Paula:  White Flowers and faint tuberose, a bit of dusty linden, and maybe a hint of sweet honeysuckle?  Alas, there's also a high-pitched chemical burning patchouli quickly making its presence emphatically known.  This would be a pleasant light floral if it weren't for this horror.  Scrubbing and trying again later......

(Later):  Hopefully I can stay with this scent longer and make more detailed notes.  I'm getting linden/honeysuckle again.....with evil patchouli lurking behind it.  It really wrecks what would have been a nice springtime fragrance.  I don't like to sniff this one because of it, it's like a spike right up my sinuses into my brain.  Scrub.  

Igor:  My personal favorite among the three. It starts with shattering snap frozen jasmine. It is a very “cold” floral scent. Hints of smoky acacia honey in the background, waxy tiare and ylang-ylang, as if someone had put the exhaling sweet flowers on ice. On the drydown it goes lightly powdery. To be honest, this scent is so close to Lush’s discontinued Flying Fox shower gel’s smell, but crisper and fresher. The sillage is somewhat strong, it radiates beautifully. Longevity is great, lasted for 5 hours on me. I would recommend this scent for fall or spring, to give a fresh, but sweet floral kick to your morning. This scent reminds me of my vacation in southern France. In Nice, by my hotel windows, jasmine grew in abundance and the mesmerizing indolic scent of jasmine would wake me in the morning. It would be light and crisp, with morning dew radiating and filling my room with that unforgettable smell.

Erica:  Wet, a bright fresh rose. Bergamot, soapy laundry florals, almond-hay-tonka, really enjoying! A strange aroma that is somehow also familiar and comforting. Seems like it might be an Arabian perfume to me. Taking pleasure from the wafts throughout the day. Clean on top with an intriguing musky harmonious base. I don't know if I love it enough to go for a bottle of this for myself; however, if I sensed this fragrance on someone passing by, I would enjoy it immensely and silently dole out perfumista points to the wearer. 

Rina:  Plastic floral but familiar scent that morphs into a pleasant comforting skin scent. I want to say this is Alien Absolue, if not that, def the only one I know I already own..

Alyssa:  My initial reaction when putting this on skin was how sweet and pretty it was - very femme. For the opening I thought I was smelling honey or honey suckle. For the middle I kept getting a green note and just couldn’t put my finger on it. For the dry down I got patchouli and wow was I surprised. For what started out so sweet and innocent kind of turned into a bad ass. This fragrance lasted hours on me! I put it on at 7 pm and woke up to it the next morning around 6:15 am. 

My review (not blind) with reveal:

This fragrance is definitely a heavy floral.  Every time I've tried it the initial wallop of orange blossom and jasmine that i have experienced have almost caused me to fly into a panic.  It's very powerful and commanding and BRIGHT, light a spotlight on a huge bouquet of white flowers whose scent has permeated every corner of a room.  Without a window, it is overwhelming......however, in a few minutes the powerful cocktail has dissipated every-so-slightly allowing for an adjustment in my ability to read it clearly.  The orange blossom is actually a very nice one, I have a love/hate relationship with orange blossom so my initial reaction was very typical for me, especially with this concentration.  I have a bottle of orange blossom absolute, when sniffed without dilution it's almost off putting....and the strength in this scent is very apparent.  It just takes it out of the off putting zone and places it with creamier notes of lily maybe, and a green tinged jasmine.  The sharpness is somewhat incendiary, elevated with a patchouli note that has a sharp wood tone to it, almost igniting the floral bouquet and taking it away from any delicacy it may hold.  It's beautiful, but in a fierce overtly feminine way.  So much so that on a man, it may be absolutely beautiful with the juxtaposition it would take.  That being said, it's too much orange blossom for me and I wouldn't wear it for that reason......but nonetheless, it's impressive for a designer fragrance and I can't say I'm surprised.  The nose is Francis Kurkdjian......his floral notes always blow me away......and the scent is Elie Saab Le Parfum.

 

 

The Experiscent 2: Mediterranean Journey

The second scent in our Experiscent series differed greatly from our first selection. This scent is a relatively recent release that got a lot of buzz in the beginning but seems to have been largely forgotten as far as discussion goes.  Meant to be (and successful in) unisex, it embraces a note that usually isn't showcased in perfumery:  clary sage.  Clary sage is a pungent herb commonly found in Mediterranean regions.  I've used it before in soapmaking, there's a beautiful airy clarity to it that blends wonderfully with citrus and florals.  Here, it is blending with fig, refreshing mastic, energizing pine, and oak.  Reactions and responses from our lovely reviewers below!

Cyndi:  This scent starts out with a blast of freshness, like a spring rain shower in the mountains.  I get crispness and citrus, that seems to be smooth and refined.  But after about 20 minutes, a synthetic mint-tea note rears its head and makes the whole scent veer off into sharp and screechy territory. This would be a good scent for someone who means business, like the revered Chanel 19, except this sample is more synthetic and not as sparkling smelling.

Alyssa:  This one scared me a little smelling it from the sprayer and how acrid it was. Boy, was I in for a treat and a surprise! First spray I instantly said MMM! out loud. It was so light, airy and refreshing. I kept thinking this would make a beautiful scent in the summer on a hot and humid day. It actually kept making me think of a Mojito! For the opening I instantly got mint and it stayed this way for a while. A gorgeous sweet flower introduced itself next and I was thinking either white flowers or yellow flowers - honey suckle or ylang ylang. The mint was still here with me. For the dry down, I know it was some sort of citrus and maybe because I had Mojito on my mind, I smelled lime. The mint was also present here as well. I did not get a ton of notes from this fragrance but I certainly enjoyed this one a lot!

Jen:  Fig, fig, figgy fig fig!! Mystery Scent #2 is much more my speed. The opening on my skin was a combination of light citrus, a soft, green, milky fig and an airy, dewy floral. Between the beautiful February in Florida weather and the perfume, I wanted nothing more than to take a rest on a sun dappled bench in a park. The major downside was the lasting power; I felt like I had to refresh about an hour and a half after spraying. And then I had to refresh *again* after another 2 hours or so...but I was happy to do so! This one is by far my favorite of the three.

Nicole:  One spray and this selection is off and running! The opening is Very sharp and bright on my skin. I get notes of wet greenery and a white floral bouquet (gardenia...Lily of the valley...) There is an underlying musk that reminds me of damp sheets in the sun while somehow bringing to mind an early spring right before the rain. After 30 minutes it softens, the bright greenery fades while the floral and musk remain. The floral develops further, so you can smell the flower growing, budding and then blooming. 

Trona:  It was a warm summer day in mid-August, the day was long and lazy. I had gone on to stay at the family farm for a week to relax and get my thoughts together. I longed for my childhood adventures on the farm playing carelessly in the pond and chasing butterflies in the field. I was a young woman when I left, a broken hearted young woman. I hadn’t returned since, that was some years ago. I sat under an old Oak tree out yonder enjoying a good book and taking in the smell of my surroundings. Warm, sweet and smoldering hay caught my attention, I sensed a hint of smoke from the pasture fires burning old wood and dried bushels. Swift breezes picked up the honeysuckle and wildflower that mixed in nicely. The mixture was reminiscent of my youth, and comforting, yet it brought back memories of my first love. While enjoying the peace and listening to the many sounds on a farm, I closed my eyes and re-experienced the combined smells again, as the day carried on, those smells blended and became softer, powdery to my nose, and suddenly I caught it, the fresh cut tobacco, it was making a statement and I opened my eyes. There he was is his glory, my first true love, but somehow, different. He had matured nicely and was standing there, fresh cut tobacco in his left pocket, the mix of the other smells and this musky, sexy cowboy chemistry all in one. He looked the part, Dark mysterious eyes, 3-day old stubble lined his pronounced jawline and thick waves of chocolate hair took a slightly wild but attractive stance on his head. Closer…I thought, I wanted to smell him closely, his scent was close to the skin and I leaned forward to steep in, it lasted for a very short while and then I opened my eyes….It was just a dream, the cowboy fragrance was gone as it dissipated with the dream. I picked up my book, put my tongue back in my mouth, and went on inside. My take on this, worn on a rainy day in the PNW, masculine, green, and I really got a lot of warm hay, it developed quickly and turned soft and powdery, quite pleasant, but still very green with hints of woods. Again, It developed again and the fresh cut tobacco became the theme, it was sexy, and warm, reminded me of a hot summer day relaxing. It is close to the skin and longevity was only about three hours on me.

Rina:  Green, juicy pear, softens to a powdery but not dry finish. Fresh and Spring-like but fleeting.

Igor:  Very mild herb bitterness hits the nose at first. I might be imagining, but to me it smells like a much toned down tomato leaf. Wood notes with very subtle hints of vanilla, not a desert one, but the herbal and earthy kind. On dry down the bitterness wears off, leaving behind a very tender and almost creamy cannabis accord. It is a very light fragrance, makes me think that it is an eau de toilette. It could easily be unisex. The longevity is moderate, stayed on for about an hour. Sillage is weak and the scent stays close to skin. This is a perfect morning summer bitter scent, light enough for an office or a very hot evening when you want a hint of herbal freshness. This fragrance paints a picture of a wealthy New England family reposing on Cape Cod in late August afternoon. He family is having early evening drinks, apropos Talbots clothing, white cotton pants and a blue linen blazer on him; white silk pants and a naval blue cotton shirt with a silk foulard on her. Both are sipping spritzers in the shade of a tree on at their summer home.

 
Alfredo:  This scent is Crisp and green I 'm getting Bergamot possibly something a little herbal..Rosemary perhaps...it's slightly bitter but in a Fresh way...This is a Classic Unisex scent in my book with a weekend attitude...Good for daytime get togethers and would work nicely In Spring weather!

Erica: I've tried this before, I just don't remember what it was! Almost minty at the opening, some coolness. Quiet greenery. Cucumber. Muguet? This would be fabulous on a sticky humid summer day, totally refreshing and not sharp at all. Making my brain hurt, I know what this is, what is it?!  There's a hint of fruit, like plum blossom or peach nectar, some kind of stone fruit but gently done. Not my typical style at all, dousing myself in this sample today was like letting someone else pick out my clothes from their wardrobe! Green and fresh and simple, with a blurry roundness to keep it from being zesty. I would guess this is an Eau de Toilette. I will say that this scent was too green and fresh for my personal tastes, but that I do appreciate the composition. 

Paula:  This is a tea fragrance with a yummy opening, it puts me in mind of Jardin en Mediterranee.  Citrus, green and fresh.  It's very close in style to the other Jardin series scents.  There's some patchouli here.....a bit acrid perhaps, and the whole composition, while essentially pleasing, is very close to bordering on harsh and astringent.  About 90 minutes in it has lost the edge and the patchouli is no longer noticeable.  It's also similar in style to Bvlgari au The Bleu, but that fragrance is softer. About 3 hours in, it still smells the same, only softer and weaker.  This scent is quite linear and doesn't have much development; it wears pretty much like it starts all the way to the end.  I do like it.

My review:

Scent number 2 was Caligna by L'Artisan.  Released in spring, 2013, it was meant to build on their Grasse range highlighting the history of French perfumery, in this case highlighting Mediterranean ingredients.  

Upon opening, I am definitely hit with a punch of clary sage and green fig.  The pairing is appropriate, the clary sage adds a breeze to the fig which is not overly syrupy but also not overly woodsy.  As Paula pointed out, the fig note in this scent reminds me of Jardins En Mediterranee from Hermes, but as Jardins en Mediterranee becomes richer and darker, Caligna continues to emphasize an refreshing outdoor greenness, almost as if you're drinking mint tea in that same garden.  The pine helps to extend the life of the clary sage and jasmine adds a summer element.  The jasmine also allows the fig to develop into a sweet, dense fruit, just a bite of it, eaten on a stone patio in a warm sunny breeze.  Caligna feels very languid and reminiscent of a hilly countryside, in a full bloom of greenery for spring.  Somewhere in the middle of the development, this scent becomes to harsh for my personal taste.......fig always acts like bells to me......their ringing can become overwhelming after awhile and it's all encompassing on my skin, so anyone with a mixed relationship with fig should try this before making any judgments.  This scents lasts about 5 hours on me and sweetens with time.  I could see this being a summer staple for many but for me it's just not one I reach for. 

       

The Experiscent: Scent Number 1 Blind Reviews and Reveal

As a relatively long-term perfume lover and collector, I have gone through the typical periods of buying, trading and selling scents.  Those of us who can relate to the term 'perfumista' are also familiar with the tragedy of failed purchases and the ecstatic feeling of a blind buy that worked out beautifully.  I know that i have fallen into many a purchase based on glowing reviews from others, or merely by virtue of brand.  As time goes by I've been finding, more and more, that expensive doesn't always mean better, indie doesn't automatically mean great, and designer is not always something to look down your nose at.  We've all experienced getting a scent on our scarf or jacket,  then putting the same item on a few days later and loving the scent but unable to place what it is.  I feel that these moments give you the most accurate perception of what your preferences are, much like the inability for one to, say, control their heartrate when they see someone very attractive.  You cannot deny the positive responses you feel to certain notes and constructions.

Those who read my last post know that I'm doing an experiment here on my blog that will be a regular feature.  These kinds of experiments are not new, however I decided to go a slightly different route.  I chose reviewers randomly who have various interest levels and experience levels with perfumes and perfumery because I was interested in a variety of opinions rather than just highly educated noses from the industry.  I want to see what people Just Like.  Is there a theme?  A formula?  I'm assuming not.  But I am very interested in reading about what people have to say about scents when they have no preconceived notions of what they SHOULD feel.

 I have eleven lovely reviewers who have volunteered to have me send them samples and decants every month.  These scents are unlabeled when I send them, so the reviewers have no idea what they are reviewing.  I wanted to see how perceptions of scents are different when labels, marketing, and preconceived opinions have been removed. Once they receive the samples, they send me their notes and I publish them here.  The scent is revealed at the bottom of the post along with my review (non-blind).  

Trona:  Fragrance #1 
This fragrance has a warm feel to it, loses longevity in the cold air, but inside on warm skin, it really shines.  #1 opens with subtle sweet and boozy wafts, she is slightly intoxicating but in a good way. The pepper and florals blend playfully, offering an alluring powdery aspect. Her cocktail breath makes one’s heart race like this party girl is meeting someone special tonight. After a short time in, she softens and you see the sophisticated, professional she is in the daytime, she wears her vanilla colored Jeanette Miner suit, with nutmeg heels and a Prada bag.....she is classic, and elegant, and very feminine. This lady doesn’t last long as a mannerly debutant, as evening approaches and she removes her layers, she reveals a warm and persuasive heart; adorned in a buttery marshmallow bustier and nothing else. She is truly a refined and well-bred woman in every sense of the word. I definitely get the pepper/nutmeg cinnamon in the top and throughout though it changes to a more balanced amount.  The florals are beautiful, but I cannot pick them out ….yet the blend feels familiar to me, I can’t put my finger on it.  It softens and gets nice and powdery (my favorite) and turns to a beautiful buttery marshmallow in the end with a hint of that spice. I love this scent and cannot wait to know what it is. 
 
Alfredo:  I'm getting a yellow floral.....something along the lines of mimosa & carnations, with possibly lily.  There's a touch of honey that adds to the sweetness. It's somewhat powdery on me with the dry down verging on slightly gourmand.  I feel this scent would be good for day time & spring weather, and for the weekends as it gives me a casual vibe. All in all stays pretty feminine giving me a Vintage 1960's Vibe!

Nicole:  A bright burst of sweet, not sickly but in a honey-syrup sense.  This scent evokest he image of early summer days outside; picnics and maypoles on a country estate in the South.  After 30 minutes the sweetness softens  and a musky, elegant scent emerges.  It reminds me of formal evening dinners at the turn of the century, very vintage and upscale like old money can buy.  After an hour the sweetness is replaced by a soft, powdery musk that sits close to the skin making me think of humid summer nights and candlelight.  I greatly enjoyed this fragrance and it reminds me of something from my childhood.  A distinctly happy feeling is associated with this scent (or something close to it).  I feel like this is a very elegant fragrance that everyone should experience at least once in their perfume adventures.

Rina:  Licorice.  Black licorice that morphs into bubble gum and camphor, then settling into a creamy tuberose.  Definitely gourmand.  Low sillage and longevity (on me, anyway).

Igor:  There's an initial rush of chypre and somewhat synthetic aldehydes. A few minutes in I sense the gourmand notes of berry, then dark coffee, mixed with roasted hazelnuts. After 30 minutes I sense vanilla and tonka . There is a “cold” sentiment that is retained throughout the entire fragrant journey. It almost balances all the warm notes in the composition. It could be either a citrus with juniper berry. For awhile it goes a little sweet and sour, then levels off and disappears. The scent is somewhat narcotic, but with a synthetic “feel” to it, as if you are getting not the real thing, but a great illusion. Longevity (on me) is rather poor, that scent is gone in 40 minutes without a trace. If I had to assign it to a specific gender, I would say they are a tad more on the masculine side which makes it ever so much sexier if worn by a woman. The sillage is rather weak; the scent stays closer to skin. It is more of an afternoon scent to be worn in a cooler weather. I usually think in pictures and this fragrance brings a very vivid image of Sean Young in Blade Runner, a bolder, stronger Joan Crawford archetype with a modern synthetic, un-human side. She has no emotions, she is cold, daring, in control of her every thought and action.

Paula:  First try......spicy opening with perhaps some cinnamon and a whiff of aldehydes.  Behind this is a sort of mid-twentieth century heart.....a well-blended floral with no one note standing out in particular.  I would take this for a mid-market fragrance, perhaps by Bvlgari or Fendi.  It's a sweet spicy floral with a hint of vanilla or amber......pleasant, but nothing is grabbing me about it.  As the top notes wear off and the heart starts to open, I find myself liking it more.   The notes at this stage are hard to pick out but now there are more fruits (perhaps plum) and a hint of hay and maple bringing to mind immortelle.  Aaaaaand now CORN of all things is coming in.  Weird! OK, an hour after applying the spice is fading and the gourmand elements are replacing them, but the scent seems to be fading.  However, 2 hours later this stage is still holding.....quietly, to be sure, and still sweet.  In the end there's a light dust of almond or heliotropin on my skin.

Jen:  I valiantly fought against my urge to scrub this one off moments after it hit my skin; there is something in it that made my nose hairs curl, unfortunately. Thankfully I persevered, and the heavy, spicy, too-floral-for-me scent gave way to a drier, duskier scent. It ended on a slightly creamy note. My note guesses: Honeysuckle, jasmine, immortelle, orange blossom, musk, amber, tonka, spices.

Erica:   Thrillingly complicated when wet. Smells expensive at the opening, fresh and bright but with nuanced spiced tones underneath, sparkling bergamot, a round hint of green, a soft orange blossom, a clean rose. The base is warm but light, a tender amber.  I sense cedar after some time on the skin. The bergamot lasts and is the star of the fragrance on me. Really enjoying this, I have a feeling I won't be able to afford a bottle but if it turns out to be inexpensive I am all over it! It's classic and energized. Throughout the day, I revisit this aroma huffing my wrists, and became more and more convinced that I have definitely tried this before and enjoyed it. I think it might be an Amouage. This is by far my favorite of the three! 

Alyssa:  I instantly thought this smelled familiar but couldn’t quite place it. I wore it 3 times and kept closing my eyes inhaling its aroma. I actually have question marks next to my notes because each day I tried it felt like a new experience. So consensus for the 3 days of wearing it I thought I sniffed out in the opening: orange blossom or honey suckle a slight bit of leather or suede a green kind of earthy note - patchouli.....For the heart I got: Amber, and a sort of citrus-like lime For the dry down I got: a woody scent - almost like cedar patchouli.

Cyndi:   This is absolutely thrilling!  Like an energetic swirl of bees and butterflies in a colorful, densely packed flower garden, heated by the bright sun.  I get 2 layers of scent here too – it’s heavenly, virginal and innocent, floating atop a lower layer of beckoning, mischievous sensuality that captures your attention and draws you closer to the wearer’s skin.  There is a honey note that I love, doing a lovely dance with powdery, floral and musk notes that are so well blended it’s like a magnificent frosting on a cake I cannot stop eating.  It’s sexy without being outright bawdy and a sassy but classy dress-up scent for evening.  This scent frankly mandates that the wearer twirl in her skirt, flirt, laugh and party the evening away.  The dry down is delicious- calming down to a hum of warm honeyed happiness on my skin, but with a little zesty something that keeps it from being too sweet or linear.  This is a scent I would definitely buy a FB of and spray again and again.   

My thoughts:
Fragrance number one was Elixir Charnel Le Boise Torride by Guerlain.  Released in 2009, this scent was meant to strike a balance between masculine and feminine (points to Igor!).  The opening reflects the feminine, with a lightly spiced floral and fruits.  The notes say berries......I sense a currant undertone.  Much of this fragrance reminds me of a softer, creamier version of Armani Si with perhaps a bit less fruit.  Though the florals are apparent, they are very soft and only serve as a landscape for the vision of fruits.  All of these notes are held aloft on a base of cedar and patchouli giving it a nicely grounded base.

What I enjoy about this scent is that it has an exuberant elegance about it.  This is a young woman new to the world of luxury......her presence skips along and over the fussy rules that have added structure to upper society.  She has not yet fallen prey to the trappings of traditional lines of feminine vs. masculine.  It feels vaguely hopeful and optimistic.  This is a lovely scent for a breezy, crisp, sunny fall day or the first sunny day of late winter when spring is a teasing scent in the cold air.   My husband asked me in the course of my considering this one, "Do you think there's anything in this scent structure that relates to a trend as a whole?"  After thinking about it, I believe the answer is yes.  In my opinion, around 2009 there started to be a movement starting to veer away from the average fruity floral.  This scent nicely tied in the commercial desire and standard to entice the general public with the fruitier aspects of the scent but still maintained elements of luxury classical perfumery.

Most of the reviewers stated that this was, to them, a high end fragrance without knowing which brand it was.  It does smell like an elegant scent and there's something in the structure and ingredients that is clearly higher end.  What I like about it as well is that it is not 'recognizably' Guerlain.  It has an individuality about it. I find the scents from the this series of Guerlain fragrances to be quite sweet and some I've never been able to embrace (*cough* Gourmand Coquin *cough*)  This one, though it steers that way, is nicely balanced by the base.  On me, I really sense the fruit and some fluffy marshmallow and a beautiful blend of sweet woods.  I don't know if I find it sexy or hot or anything like that as the name would imply; but it is definitely cozy, warm and pleasant.  This seems to be one of the lesser-appreciated scents from the Elixirs Charnel lineup....however, I feel like it was released before its time.  I feel that many current releases are very similar to the feel of this scent but this one is better done than most.....had it been a new release I believe it would have been more universally embraced. A shame, since the latest info is that it has been discontinued.