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Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Experiscent Number 7: Sexy Pears

With spring here, much of my current rotation is being spend revisiting scents that I haven't worn in months, and pulling out scents that may have been forgotten for a time.  Opening the armoire of my scents is always a little bit like a treasure hunt.  I may go in looking for something but along the way I start down a road of scent adventures that may or may not take me to my original goal, but possible turning me towards another forgotten payload of beauty.  It's always a thrill of rediscovery.

My choice for Experiscent number 7 is a modern creation by Bertrand of my very favorite noses.  When I first tried this scent I didn't pay attention to who had created it, but once I looked at a larger description I felt like 'Of course!'.  I always love the way he blends light, effervescent notes with darker elements that I don't always think would work together, but somehow he balances them beautifully in his creations and this one was no exception.

Notes from the panel:

Alfredo: I Kissed a Boy and I Liked it....the taste of his CHERRY Chap Stick!  Wow what a FUN sweet, almost waxy scent.  I'm getting loads of Cherry Goodness from this BRIGHT flirty juice...whatever florals are in this I'm getting cherry blossom of course.  When I get a close sniff it practically tickles my nose.  This would be the perfect Party Scent...when you're out to have a good time with your friends ...or THAT Boy with the Kissable Lips!

Alyssa:  #7 was definitely my favorite of the bunch. Mmm what a pretty, bright and effervescent fragrance! It had a little bite to it as well which I always enjoy. I thought I smelled a bit of anise in the opening but couldn’t really pick out much of anything else. It wore pretty well on skin, 5+ hours but I would’ve loved for it to stick around a little more!

First wearing: This is a soft floral with iris. Very quiet. I think I detect some heliotropin (almond) too. Some sweetness….cocoa? And amber. This scent is not very strong--I have to really press my nose to skin to smell it now after 20 mins even though I used half the vial on one forearm! Not radically different from #8; in the same style for sure. After the top notes subside, the amber is becoming more prominent and starting to take on a shrill chemical character that makes it a no-go for me. …Not much longevity on this one. Gone in a couple of hours despite a generous application.

Second wearing, a week later: Is that orange blossom to open? I detect the iris for sure (not a very rooty/starchy or carroty iris), and the amber is right up front this time--it’s really strong, and has a burning quality to it. …After the opening, today I am also getting a very sweet note that is almost overwhelming. It smells kind of gross and fake. This strikes me as not a very well balanced perfume.  (later)…I am actually getting a bit nauseated by the sweetness, which has a chemical edge, not like something found naturally. …Luckily this stage didn’t last too long. I wonder why it bothered me this time? I am on a diet so hungrier than usual…maybe my tolerance for the weird sweetness was lower on an empty stomach! Between that and the burning amber, I was glad that there is no longevity to this scent. 

Trona:  When traveling through an Italian countryside in Tuscany, I breathe in the crisp fresh air tinged with a sort of tomato note, I capture such an effervescent pear scent, it tingles in my nose. It is strong enough to get my curiosity going and I continue walking into a marvelous orchard of pear trees with green grass and violets about, I smell the sweet and fresh remnants of grapevines from the vineyard alongside me, the odors akin to a lovely version of Lolita, the day is cool, but the sun is out and shining its light on all of natures beauty around me. I immediately felt I recognized this perfume, moderate sillage, lasts about 3 hours on me, the fragrance is a strong pear for me, I also get something else, a fresh green and something that is reminiscent of tomato. This was well blended, as I had a tough time pulling notes out, but I have a feeling there could be anise or licorice in this one and it comes off as pear to me. 

Emily:  Fruity! I’m thinking pear, though I wouldn’t say no to apple or litchi. It reminds me a lot of Asphalt Rainbow by Charenton Macerations (there’s a bit of a plastic quality), but with a quieter floral. It's probably not rose; certainly not one of the big, white tropical beauties. I want to say peony, even though I am not sure I know what peony actually smells like. It seems to be dipping its toe in the aquatic notes, so for all I know it could be water lily or lotus blossom. Whatever it is, I’ll bet it’s pink. Drydown strikes me as mostly musky, with perhaps some very light woods and comes far too soon.

Igor:  The scent is very light and milky at first. I might be imagining, but could be lactones to recreate the scent of peaches or a touch of watery milky iris. The notes that add to complexity are florals, maybe Lily of the Valley in it and some orange blossoms and very faint green hints on the base of laundry musk. After 20 minutes he scent becomes very powdery and sweeter. Ok, maybe it is just me, but this fragrance does not engender any emotions whatsoever. It is a clean, generic scent, almost like a hospital disinfectant. I work at a hospital and I swear our hand disinfectant smells just like this.  (audrey's note:  I'd be disinfecting all day!  :)  )  Longevity is moderate, about 3 hours on me; the sillage is low as I could barely detect it on my wrists. I would easily pass that at the fragrance counter since it has no emotional anchors for me. 

Jen:  In the bottle and immediately on my skin it smells like cherry cough syrup. After a bit I get a deep, rich sweetness; think dried fruits swimming around in a thick syrup. A bit of a waxy vibe comes around every now and then. There is also a surprisingly savory something, too. Maybe something nutty? I'm pretty ambivalent about this one.

This one literally sparkles in the opening and seems effervescent. It brings to mind sparkling mimosas, pineapple and tropical breezes. The bright, pretty opening softens fades and then returns throughout the day. As it softens, a powdery floral simpers in, soothing and gentle. After about 30 minutes a hint of the top note returns and dances along as the dry down begins. As it develops, there is a sensual warm vanilla that envelops your senses. After a short time the top note seems to return and a sparkling vanilla caresses your skin. On me this one lasts all day and remains into the next day. Beautiful, full and absolutely divine. This is something I would gladly wear all the time because it is so beautiful.

Erica:  This is far and away my favorite from this round. It reminds me so much of Serge Lutens Douce Amère that I wonder if it's a SL scent I haven't tried yet. There is a gentle grace infused into this perfume. I sense round white blossoms resting on a wispy cloud of pillowy vanilla. I swear I can detect nutmeg as well. At the bottom I sense clove or star anise, a cautious hint of some ancient spice. It's a feminine, delicate aroma with a glowing warmth that I'm drawn to immensely. I also must say that after the drydown, I am nostalgically reminded of Vanilla Fields and it is such a tender scent memory. Love! 

Reveal and my review: 
Scent number 7 was La Belle Helene by MDCI.

MDCI scents always surprise me.  I find many of their scents to straddle a line between modern and quietly vintage.  La Belle Helene opens with ylang and pear with a slight hint of lipstick wax.  Pear can be tricky.....sometimes it can feel like a strong dose of nail polish remover, but not here.  In La Belle Helene, the Pear is sweet and clear, not quite juicy but closer to a pear skin or pear brandy.  The pear and ylang blend well with the lipstick note, there's a whisper of rose over a rich underpinning of plum and wood notes.  The use of ylang here is light handed; ylang can sometimes overwhelm but here is enhances, giving the pear great clarity.  Myrrh is a lovely addition as well, adding a silken, rich element to what might have turned this scent towards a basic fruity floral, and gives it a 'grown up', sexy twist.  As the scent develops it loses nothing of its top sparkle and gathers more character,  very much as if a pretty woman has become even more beautiful once you've spoken to her and found out just how intriguing she is.  The notes continue to dance and weave, now it is vibrant, but a minute later it's slightly mysterious and plush.....the basenotes of myrrh, a wisp of vetiver, musk and a touch of oakmoss.  The notes also list licorice wood......and I do think I get a hint of licorice but it's very faint, though notable.  This lingering veil lasts for hours on me and I keep getting delicious whiffs of it from my shirt sleeves, and every time I say 'mmmm' and breathe it in deeply.  Great transitional scent from a cool to warm season or summer night scent. 

I like combinations of fruit and oriental notes.  This scent sits firmly in the same line as Patou Forever, Histoires Georges Sands, Boadicea Glorious, and to some extent Quelques Fleurs.

Official notes as per Fragrantica:  Top notes: pear, aldehydes, tangerine and lime. Heart: rose essence, osmanthus, ylang-ylang, orris butter, Mirabelle plum and hawthorn. Base: myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, cedar, oak moss, white musk, sandalwood and licorice wood.

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